Dandy Tuesday

Explanation of Dandy (dandi) 
-a man unduly concerned with looking stylish and fashionable.
eg. "his floppy handkerchiefs and antique cufflinks gave him the look of a dandy"

So today we giving some advice on getting that right fit when purchasing a jacket and getting it right the first time.
Here is a great article I found on the different jacket constructions.

The Right Jacket Shoulder for Your Anatomy

Since its origins with Beau Brummell, the features of a suit have been tweaked and adjusted with the express purpose of enhancing the male physique. In fact, fashion historian Anne Hollander has explained that the suit developed with the goal of making men look like ancient Greek statues. It does this by using clothto create the impression of broad shoulders and slim hips–no need to go to the gym! This can start with the structured shoulder on suits made in the British style, where padding is used to make the shoulders appear larger. You can also see this on high-end French suits, most famously the “Cifonelli shoulder.”


The additional padding in the shoulder area is specifically designed to make one look more physically imposing, perfect for the battlegrounds of business but best on lean men. Those who have athletic builds or otherwise bulky shoulders would end up with an exaggerated look if they stuck to structured suits. The best option in this case is the natural shoulder, without padding, exemplified by Neapolitan style suit jackets. These fit like shirts and allow your own shoulders to shine without enhancement.

Unpadded “natural shoulder.”

Another possibility for those who want to widen their upper bodies is to look for an extended jacket shoulder, where there isn’t heavy structure as in British suits, but instead a sleeve head that begins further out beyond where your shoulders end. This “cheats” by adding an inch or two to your width, giving you an impression of greater shoulder width. Ring Jacket and Liverano & Liverano feature these among high-end brands.

Thanks to Dr Christopher Lee of Gentleman's Gazette for this interesting insert and insight